A Road Trip Through Småland

I’m approaching the landscapes of my childhood from the North. Lake Vättern catches my eye, the massive inland lake’s glittering reflection follows me as I leave Jönköping. This scenic stretch of highway is one of the most magnificent in Sweden. The sky is blue, and the water is clear today. The large sun softens the picturesque landscape, giving it an air of effervescence with its deep greenery and summer colours. I pass the city limits and soon find myself in the deepest parts of the John-Bauer forest, in a little village called Bunn. From here, I take the winding gravel roads through beautiful rolling hills, complete with scattered red cottages, glittering lakes, and elegant birch trees. Lilacs cluster along the roadside. This is exactly what Småland looks like in the brochures for tourists. But it’s also exactly what it looks like in the memories I collected during my childhood.

Of course, Småland offers so much more than red cottages and lilacs. Outside Huskvarna, I cycle past apple groves that seem to melt into rolling greenery, the landscapes reminiscent of Tuscany. I visit farmers who cultivate the land’s endless treasures. Some of these farmers are almost entirely self-sufficient – an achievement in today’s modern world. While the past feels intact here, there are also many glimpses into the future. One of the country’s best hotel destinations is in Växjö. Not far from there, straight into the wilderness, I’m blown away by Europe’s longest zipline, which zips over trees and streams at incredibly fast speeds. Just south of here, you can explore Sweden’s newest National Park, a fascinating inland archipelago bestowed with a thousand untouched islands. So many artists have found tranquility and creativity in the forests of Småland. The same can be said of those who create in the Kingdom of Crystal. My encounters here always inspire introspection and thoughts of flight – perhaps I should move here and start creating?

From the Crystal Kingdom, the forests open up and I come to the coastal city of Kalmar, a historical location that’s a must-see in Sweden. After grappling with its very boring image (I know this because I grew up here, and in the 80s there was not a vast supply of cheer), the city has transformed and is now simmering with creativity and innovation. Ironically, it was the city’s comprehension of its historical significance that enabled it to embrace modernity.

And so continues the journey along the coast. Sweden’s most charming village Pataholm and the summer city Västervik are tucked away in an archipelago that I always long to return to.

Småland. An entire country in one landscape.

In an industrial building right in the middle of the city, there’s an old rubber factory known today as Madame. It is a creative hub in Värnamos, with a stageshow theatre, library, and cinema. Madame is the centre of it all, gastronomically and socially. The charm of the industrial past effortlessly intertwines with the contemporary atmosphere. The happy murmur of those mingling in the bistro is contagious, as I try a traditional dish: meatballs and mashed potato. Visit their website (in Swedish)

Jönköping-Växjö-Kosta-Kalmar

Jönköping – Huskvarna – Bunn – Värnamo – Isaberg (Hestra) – Moheda – Huseby Bruk/Grimslöv – Växjö – Åsnens Nationalpark – Zipline LIttle Rock Lake (Klavreström) – Ösjöbol – Målerås – Kosta – Boda – Kalmar – Pataholm –Västervik