Flavours of Småland

Ostkaka, or “cheesecake,” is a Småland specialty made from milk, flour, cheese rennet, bitter almond, eggs, cream, almonds, and sugar. Traditionally served lukewarm with jam and whipped cream, it has a granular texture that sets it apart from other cheesecakes. Recipes vary between families, giving each ostkaka its own unique taste and appearance.

For centuries, ostkaka has been central to feasts and special occasions in Småland, with its tradition dating back to at least the 16th century. In the past, contributing a large ostkaka to communal potlucks was a mark of prestige, and families took pride in making the best one.

Eating ostkaka starts from the middle, a custom that likely began as a safety precaution when cakes were baked in copper tins. While the poison risk is long gone, the habit persists, with many believing the middle is creamier and more delicious.

Ostkaka is typically served with jam, but opinions differ on the best pairing: cloudberry, sour cherry, strawberry, or raspberry. Despite fewer people baking their own ostkaka, its tradition thrives. Since 2004, enthusiasts have celebrated November 14 as Ostkakans dag, or Cheesecake Day, highlighting its cherished role in Swedish culture.

The traditional isterband, a tasty pork sausage prepared as it always has been prepared. It is best eaten with dill stewed potatoes and beetroots.

Småland used to be a poor landscape, situated between the fruitful Skåne in the south and the just as fruitful Östergötland and Västergötland in the north. But the hearty everyday food from old times in Småland – isterband – is now regarded as Småland’s national dish. Traditionally, isterband are served grilled, either whole or divided in the middle. It is served at Christmas dinner and on smorgasbord, or as an own dish with dill stewed potatoes, pickled beets, and perhaps some lingonberry jam.

Isterband are often made out of pork meat, with added potatoes or grains – or both. Usually barleycorn is used, but rice is also common. Oatmeal may occur in some recipes. The sausages always have a certain piquancy, or acidity, to them.

The original way of achieving this was by letting the stuffed sausages hang above the wood stove or in the attic to dry, with the naturally occurring lactic acid bacteria in the sausage multiplying and contributing to the sour taste. Today, the taste is achieved by other means. Non-smoked isterband are called “dried”, but you can also smoke them lightly. Småland isterband is supposedly the only genuinely Swedish sausage without an equivalent in other countries.

Many makers in Småland still ferment the sausages in a completely natural way with lactic acid bacteria, and then cold smoke them for a few days. All of this to highlight the natural sour flavour. Some of the genuine isterband makers in Småland are: Ello in Lammhult, Stens Chark in Åseda, Stensåkra Chark in Vetlanda, Gullaskruvs delikatesser, and Åkes hemlagade in Tingsryd. Some can be found in supermarkets, others sell them themselves in shops or at markets.

There are several genuine manufacturers in Småland, including: Ello i Lammhult och Stens Chark i Åseda, Stensåkra chark.

Småland is known for the local dish ‘body cakes’ – ‘kroppkakor’ in Swedish. While kroppkakor are well-known for being a local staple on Öland, they are eaten across eastern Sweden, including in Småland, Blekinge, and Gotland.

The savory ‘balls’, comprised of a potato-based dough filled with baked pork and onions or other fillers, are similar to dumplings. The Småland variant has more potato in the dough than those you’ll find on Öland, so they’re lighter in colour. All kroppkakor variants have a unique spice profile that gives them their characteristic taste.

Kroppkakor are typically eaten with butter, cream, and lingonberries. Like with Swedish Cheesecake, there are many recipes for kroppkakor – so there’s plenty of room for experimentation and play. Here’s a simple recipe for a potato-dough dumpling and pork filler.